Air Torture

Italian Food and Adventure in Cinque Terre

Tourism August 12th, 2008

Known for its surreal views and its mouth-watering pesto, Cinque Terre is the epitome of an Italian vacation. A trip here is not complete without hiking through the five beach towns of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. An inexpensive day pass must be bought before the hike, and includes the train fare. An experience of a lifetime, you will never forget this scenic hike on Via Dell’ Amore. Not up for the hike? Conveniently, the train makes stops in every town. Be sure to stop in one of the towns and enjoy a truly Italian meal, as this region is known throughout Italy for its delectable pesto and fresh fish!

RealTraveler Myra-World Explorer describes the magnificences of Cinque Terre:

“Before I finalized my worldwide itinerary, my friends Suzanne and Nolen recommended that I add Cinque Terre to the Italian leg of my trip. I never heard of the 5 fishing villages nestled along the coast of Northern Italy, but trusted their judgment since they did a 1-year tour themselves several years ago. I am so glad I followed their advice since the five terres are just what most websites describe them as- breathtaking and untouched. Dubbed a UNESCO World Heritage site, this national park is the perfect place to hike, shop, lounge, or completely veg out while enjoying a small carafe of wine and tortellini. This is exactly the way I spent my days while I was there.”

RealTravelers oddlyweds share their very recent experience:

“We climbed a lot more steps and walked a lot longer (six hours to be precise) than we have done altogether so far on this trip. There were olive groves, vineyards, spectacular views of the coastline, interesting cemeteries, Via del’ amore (path of love) and steep drops from the side of the unbelievably narrow trail. At the end of the day it was well worth it. We rewarded ourselves with yummy popsicles and a really good pizza along the way. We also took a boat ride to get more of the scenery and the best part of it all, jumped in the sea. It is the clearest, bluest water I have ever seen. The water was so good that the incredibly rocky beach could not spoil it. Today has been one of the best, if not the best day of our trip so far. I can’t put a finger on it, the people, the scenery, the food, the laid back attitude, blue skies, bluer water, views from our apartment… it all adds up.”

Tags: , ,

The Flying Gourmet: Austrian Airlines

Air August 1st, 2008

Most airlines in the United States would have you believe that they are in the “transportation business” — as if somehow humans were just cargo moving from point A to point B. The Europeans are not absent from this philosophy: Ryanair and EasyJet have popularized the notion of passenger as a box. But, many of the mainline carriers in Europe are proud of their heritage, their culture and their service. Austrian Airlines is such an airline!

On a recent business trip from London to New Delhi, I had the opportunity to sample Austrian Airlines’ business class. It was as far away from human cargo as I could have imagined.

The business class section of the airplane was equipped with lie-flat (though not horizontal) seats, a personal video screen that popped out of the center console, a fluffy blanket and a soft pillow. The menu, literally a small folder stuffed with information about the food service that day, tantalized my imagination and stomach as soon as I opened it. Appetizers of “Salmon and Prawns with marinated fennel and leaf salad” accompanied by “viennese potato mushroom soup” would start the feast, followed by “rack of spring lamb served with herbed pappardelle, sauteed wild mushrooms and rosemary jus.” It didn’t stop there! A cheese and exotic fruit course followed, only to be topped off by the dessert. I almost chose two desserts, but resisted then settled for the “Austrian style apricot dumplings.” This stuff was 10.5 on the taste-o-meter! Even hand-delivered to my tray table by a full-blown chef.

I was disappointed, though, when I found a small booklet in the menu folder that announced: “Sorry, no coffee served on this flight…” I stuffed it back into the menu folder without looking at it. After dinner, I saw the flight attendants moving around the cabin with coffees. But, I thought…? I pulled the small booklet back out and took a look at it: a veritable encyclopedia of Viennese coffee! Cappucinos, mochas, lattes and many German names I could not even begin to pronounce!

After dinner, my seat reclined into the “relax” position while I watched a movie. I was so content, I don’t even remember the movie. My eyes closed and my mind drifted off into the clouds. I was awakened by clanking silverware a few hours later — time for the second service, apparently! “Herbed chicken brochette, leaf salads and french dressing” followed by “marinated berries with vanilla creme fraiche.”

The flight was over too soon. I peered out the window as we began our descent into New Delhi. It was dark very outside, not even so much as a candle or a street light was visible from the sky. And this on the outskirts of a city inhabited by nearly 14 million people! Too much cargo for Ryanair, I bet.

Tags: , , ,

In Mumbai: The Taj Palace Hotel is All the Raj

Travel August 1st, 2008

I couldn’t spot much of the dawn from where I was sitting. The sky was blue, splotched with a gelatenous cloud that stretched like cotton wool above the edge of the far wall. My breakfast table sat 25 feet from the hotel pool where three early morning swimmers, mostly German from what I could tell, flapped back and forth. A gentle draught from the wooden ceiling fan alleviated a bit of the scorching, humid day. I folded the Times of India, put the paper next to my plate, and motioned to the cafe butler.

From this vantage point in the courtyard of the Taj Mahal Palace hotel, you wouldn’t know that Mumbai (formerly Bombay) is a frenetic, car-clogged megapolis. The city, named after a Hindu goddess, is the commercial and entertainment center of India. It is home to over 20 million people — millionaires, families that subsist on less than a day, and everything in between. The rich and destitute are neighbors here. Tarpaulin shacks are propped up against gleaming apartment towers and Asia’s largest slum encroaches on the runways of the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport.

It is one of the most densely populated cities of the world.

This fact was no more evident than during my drive from the airport. The car herked and jerked through traffic in a complicated ballet that made the Brooklyn-Midtown tunnel at rush hour seem like a Nascar speedway. There were men on bicycles, couples balancing on motorbikes, men in dark glasses being chauffeured in Maybachs, families of six stuffed into yellow and black Fiat taxis, and trucks spewing smoke like coal chimneys. My colleague told me yesterday it has been widely reported that a day breathing the air in Mumbai is equivalent to smoking two packs of cigarettes.

Like the eye of a storm, the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower sits just behind the Gateway of India, the city’s most famous monument. The prestigous hotel was built in 1903, allegedly because Jamsetji Tata (the father of modern Indian industry) became offended when he was refused entry to a “whites only” hotel. The Taj Mahal Palace looked luxurious at first glance. Its architecture merges Moorish, Oriental and Florentine styles into stunning hallways and atriums of alabaster ceilings, onyx columns and graceful archways. In my room, there was a hand-woven silk carpet, marble bathroom fixtures and beautiful antique furniture.

However, the hotel quickly began to unravel in the details. The overwhelming paint smell in my room made me feel like a salmon in a smokehouse. The television system took several minutes to boot. Yes: minutes. There was no alarm clock. Multiple requests for an iron and ironing board went unrequited. Apparently, I had been upgraded to a deluxe room. But I’m not complaining (okay, maybe a little). Compared to many in the city, I was indulging in the high life.

There was not a menu at breakfast, which I actually found quite liberating. I assumed that meant I could order anything. After sharing morning pleasantries with the butler, I got down to business. “I’ll have Akuri eggs, please, with a glass of orange juice, some English Breakfast tea and wheat toast.” It was a bit of a test. Akuri eggs are a traditional spicy scrambled egg dish of Parsi origin. When done correctly, the eggs are tossed with coriander, cumin, ginger, chilis, tomatoes and pepper.

Fifteen minutes later the toast wedges arrived, balanced carefully in a metal rack. They were soon followed by perfectly cooked Akuri eggs, fresh-pressed oranges and a pot of tea as good as any in London. I thanked the butler and picked up my fork. I was sweating already.

Tags: , ,

From Ouch to Ahhh in Bangkok

Tourism August 1st, 2008

“Pain?” she remarked, quite matter-of-factly considering that my face had twisted into a grimace. I think this was the only word the Thai woman knew in English. Her right leg was wrapped under my left one, and her arm had somehow had found its way to my right shoulder via my spine. I tried to smile. But ouch.

I was wrapped in a Thai massage or “nuat phaen boran” which literally means the ancient-manner massage. Over the scheduled two hours, the woman beat and kneaded every known and heretofore undiscovered muscle in my body, gradually turning me into a soupy piece of human chewing gum. I didn’t even get her name.

There’s a special mystique the comes with returning to a particular place over and over again. The big sights are checked off the list, and you can dig into the little adventures, back streets and daily rythms of the place. On my fourth trip to Bangkok, I felt no obligation to pay respects to the Teak Palace, the Wat Pho or the Emerald Buddha. (Although, I still confess an unusual attraction to the Chatuchak Weekend Market.)

Instead, I’ve begun to develop a bit of a habit. First, a stop to see Victor at Rajawongse Tailors on Sukhumvit. He does an excellent job with my custom dress shirts (THB 1,000, about ) such that I’ve never bought one in a store since. Then, there’s Health Land Spa in Ekamai where a two-hour Thai massage in a luxururious and clean setting can be had for only THB 500 (about ). Make reservations, though, this place is popular with the locals. For a meal, it’s either Cabbage & Condoms, a touristy dive with unabashed flair off of Sukhumvit Road. Or Mali Restaurant, a tiny hole-in-the-wall near the Austrian Embassy that serves a hot, buttery green curry for THB 150 (about .50).

On Sunday morning, after over-indulging on dragon fruit at the breakfast buffet, I floated through the greasy, hot June air to Lumpini Park. It’s one of the few open spaces in the city. As such, the park tends to attract morning joggers and Tai Chi practitioners seeking relief from the honking horns and pollution. So-called “monitor lizards” are also daily guests in the park. These 1.5 metres long cousins of the Komodo Dragon glide through the water and dash across the park lawns at astonishing speeds. During my morning walk, I happened to startle one in the tall grass and I think we both jumped five feet in the air before it dove head-first into the water away from me.

Perhaps it was out of envy that I returned to the hotel, donned my swim trunks and dove into the swimming pool. From ouch to ahhh. All in a days work.

Tags: ,

Group pushes pot-smoking as antidote to drunken air rage

Air July 1st, 2008

Smoking pot will help keep airline passengers calm and could prevent incidents of air rage, according to the unorthodox claim being made by a group called Safer Alternatives For Enjoyable Recreation (SAFER). The Denver Post says the group “held a press conference on Tuesday outside the offices of the Federal Aviation Administration in Denver to propose a solution to the rash of in-flight disturbances on airplanes over the last year.”

KUSA TV of Denver notes that SAFER’s media ploy “comes a day after 35-year-old Christina Szele of Woodside, N.Y. appeared in a Denver federal court on charges of interference with a flight attendant and assault after being accused of lighting up (a cigarette) on a JetBlue flight last week, then punching a male flight attendant in the face” when he tried to get her to put it out. Szele told investigators she didn’t remember smoking or attacking anyone because the flight attendants gave her too many vodka drinks,” KUSA says.

The Post writes that SAFER’s executive director, Mason Tvert, claims “Szele’s outbursts wouldn’t have happened if she’d been inhaling instead of imbibing.” As for Tvert, the Rocky Mountain News describes him as “a crusader for legalizing marijuana” and says he has issued calls “for pot-smoking lounges in the nation’s airports.” Tvert offers the unusual claim that doing say would make flying safer.

“There’s been this growing trend of alcohol-related air rage,” he’s quoted as saying at the group’s press event. Nonetheless, Denver airport officials say fliers shouldn’t expect new “smoking” lounges anytime soon. “I can safely say we have no plans to open any marijuana lounges at (Denver International),” airport spokesman Jeff Green tells the Rocky Mountain News. “We’re not paying attention to this.”

Apprently undeterred, Tvert offers yet another pro-marijuana argument to the Rocky Mountain News. “You’ve got struggling airlines, right?” he says. “From what I understand, marijuana tends to lead to the munchies. (So,) if more passengers smoked marijuana before they flew and had the munchies, airlines could, you know, charge for snacks instead of for baggage.”

Tags:

Flaunting the Social Ethics of Flying

Air, Travel July 1st, 2008

Congratulations. It’s an exit row seat. The glorious salvation from 29″ pitch in SAS Punishment Class. I smile and settle in, even buckling my seatbelt to make sure no one removes me from this economy throne. I stash a book or two in the marsupial pouch in front of me and clip my iPod to my belt. No matter how bad the day was, I am determined to enjoy this flight.

Then She shows up. You know the one. Blond, her hair cropped short, she wears her make-up like a racoon. “Excuse me, sir.” She is always very polite. “Would you be willing to switch seats with my boyfriend?” She points and smiles innocently to Her boyfriend a few rows up in 14E. That’s right: E. It’s a middle seat. He has just managed to unwedge himself from between the drunk German tourist and the photocopy salesman to look my direction with wide, imploring eyes.

Tags:

US Airways International Sales

Air June 21st, 2008

http://www.mediaonboard.com/images/promo/united.jpg

Each Way From To

$266 Pittsburgh, PA Guatemala City, Guatemala
$274 Cincinnati, OH Guatemala City, Guatemala
$314 Charlotte, NC Guatemala City, Guatemala
$379 Chicago, IL (ORD) Dublin, Ireland
$449 Philadelphia, PA Dublin, Ireland
$474 Boston, MA Brussels, Belgium
$474 Charlotte, NC Lisbon, Portugal
$499 Minneapolis, MN Brussels, Belgium
$499 San Francisco, CA Lisbon, Portugal
$499 Phoenix, AZ Lisbon, Portugal

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

Purchase Ticket By Monday June 23, 2008.
Travel Complete Travel to/from Guatemala, Lisbon, Dublin and Brussels is valid from June 18, 2008 - July 31, 2008. Travel to/from Lisbon, Dublin and Brussels is valid from June 19, 2008 - July 31, 2008.
Advance Purchase A 3-day advance purchase is required for travel to Europe.
Minimum/Maximum Stay No minimum stay; 30-day maximum stay.
Cabin Coach.
Travel On All or part of service may be on (1) US Airways, (2) regional or jet aircraft operated by US Airways Express carriers Air Midwest, Air Wisconsin, Chautauqua, Colgan, Mesa, Piedmont, PSA, Republic Airways, Trans States, (3) regional or jet aircraft operated by Mesa Airlines, (4) United Airlines®, (5) Bahamasair, (6) Windward Islands Airways International, (7) Lufthansa, (8) Spanair, or (9) bmi.
Blackout Dates Blackouts do not apply.
Other The number of seats available for this sale is limited. All fares are subject to change until purchased.
Ticket Refundability Tickets are non-refundable.
Itinerary Changes Changes to this reservation are subject to a $150 minimum change fee per passenger for travel to/from the Caribbean and Mexico. A $200 minimum change fee per passenger applies for travel to/from Europe.
Routing Select markets may require nonstop routing.
Roundtrip Travel Required Yes.
Other Discount This is a discounted fare and may not be combinable with any other discounts. Travel vouchers, future travel awards or airchecks may not be used as a form of payment online.
Security Fee A September 11th security fee of $2.50 per flight segment will apply. A flight segment is defined as one take-off and landing.
Passenger Charge PFCs - Local airports assess PFCs up to $18 per passenger.
International Taxes Fares do not include international taxes and fees up to $56
Purchase Through usairways.com, telephone reservations, or US Airways airport or city ticket offices. Tickets purchased through US Airways telephone reservations (800-622-1015) are $35 higher. Tickets purchased at US Airways airports or city ticket offices are $45 higher. Fares purchased through travel agents may incur additional fees.

Tags: , , ,

Taipei: All in a Day’s Walk

Air June 14th, 2008

Taipei lacks the charm of San Francisco, the beauty of Paris, and the glitz of Singapore. But beneath the formless, polluted skies, the monotonous cement buildings and the noisy road construction, there is the heartbeat of a young, independent city. Last night our Country Manager took the team to eat at AoBa, the self-described mecca for “creative Taiwanese food.” The restaurant sits just a few blocks from the tallest building in the world, Taipei 101. This was an area of town where you could feel the pulse of this young country. At dinner, course after course of heavily-flavored Taiwanese and Chinese dishes paraded in front of my eyes and, after relatively few questions, into my stomach. Taiwanese food fuses together flavors from the middle and southern provinces of China and even has a hint of Japanese influence. It was delightful and put me squarely in the mood for some well-deserved rest.

The next morning, when I pushed back the curtains in my room, I came face to face with two elderly Chinese men in the building less than 25 feet from my face. They were dressed in wife-beaters, sitting on stubby-legged chairs smoking rolled cigarettes and playing a game I couldn’t quite make out. I looked down below to see a few young people at an outdoor cafe with bowls of steaming soup. Next door, a man in his 20’s dressed for business stepped out of a Starbucks with his latte Venti grasped firmly in his right hand. I stared at the scene for a while, lost in my hazy jet-lagged mind. It was probably a little too long because the two Chinese men started to stare back. I smiled awkwardly and pulled the curtains shut.

Lamentably, Taipei is not a very walkable city. After being caged in the office all day on Friday, I wanted to stretch my legs and decided to navigate the five city blocks back to my hotel. Cars swarmed the four lane street to my right. The light rail barrelled over my head. The sidewalk was more of a parking zone for scooters than a pedestrian haven. The residents of Taipei barrelled down towards me, inured to the commuting madness. Many of them were wearing face masks, which made me feel for a moment like I had missed an important news bulletin. But given that we were out-numbered by gas and diesel motors, they were probably all the wiser for it.

Thirty minutes later, I dragged myself into the marble oasis of the hotel lobby. The bellman smiled at me and asked if he could help me find something. “Peace and quiet?!” I felt like saying. Back in my room, I non-chalantly glanced out the window for my neighbors before sealing the curtains shut. The treadmill and CNBC would be charming company enough for tonight.

Tags:

Flight Attendants for Your Coffee Table

Air June 14th, 2008

Flying the friendly skies, Brian Finke began photographing flight attendants as he crisscrossed the country on Delta, JetBlue, Hawaiian, Hooters Air, Southwest, and Song airlines, before going abroad on Air France, Qantas, and British Airways. In London, he visited a flight attendant school, complete with emergency rafts and billowing smoke. Continuing east, Finke traveled Air Asia, Thai, Tiger, ANA, Japan, and Cathay Pacific. For the grand finale of his two-year trip, Finke traveled the illustrious Icelandair.

The result of this fascination is Flight Attendants, a vibrant document of those adventurous souls who choose to work at 40,000 feet. Shot before, during, and after trips, at school and at home, Finke’s photographs capture the allure of this high-flying profession alongside the more quiet moments of the attendants’ daily lives.

Tags: ,

Drinking Up Life on Air New Zealand

Air June 14th, 2008

If you’re on the East coast of the United States, you’re fresh into your work day. On the other side of the world, in Taipei, it’s already creeping into the next morning. This fact is no more evident to me now that I am sitting in my “Heavenly” bed staring at the orange glow from my bedside clock as it counts down the minutes to 3AM. Jetlag is a funny thing; the great biological reminder that I have little control over my body’s sleep functions. I flop back onto my pillow and run through the events of the previous 24 hours in my head.

It didn’t seem like that long ago I had sauntered on to the Air New Zealand flight from London-Heathrow to Hong Kong. Even though the thought of spending 14 hours on one plane is enough to make anyone grumble, I was actually eager for the in-flight experience. The airline was fresh off winning the “Best Passenger Service” award from Air Transport World magazine. And who am I to disagree? Within seconds of arriving at my business class seat-pod-thingy, two flight attendants descended from either end of the aisle — one smiled a welcome while grabbing my coat, the other raised a tray of champagne glasses for me to enjoy while settling into my seat.

Air New Zealand’s Business Premier physical product is effectively a variation on Virgin Atlantic’s famed Upper Class seat. The herringbone seat layout runs down into the front end of the 747 in such a way that ensures privacy and amazingly spacious comfort. The design of the seat is quite unique. An ottoman sits opposite each seat in case you want to have some company during lunch. Since I wasn’t feeling social, I found the ottoman most practical as a footstool to stretch out my legs. When I was ready to turn in for the night, the flight attendant pushed a button and the back-board of the seat flipped down to form a fully-flat bed 6-feet 8-inches long. She spread out a mattress pad, down comforter and fluffy pillow … I was out before you could say “fasten your seatbelt.”

Besides the fantastic service and revolutionary seat, it’s probably worth mentioning that the wine menu for this flight was 54 pages long. No, that’s not a typo. 54 pages just for wine. It was a virtual encylopedia of the best harvests from New Zealand — Northland Merlots to Gisborne Chardonnays. It even included a few pages for note-taking! Although I had been advised to make the most of sleep early in the flight to avoid jetlag, this was too much to pass up! (Of course, now I’m paying for it.) The wines were complimented by a mouthwatering menu featuring pan-seared organic salmon, beef fillet steak with red wine jus or roasted chicken leg stuffed with ginger, lentils and garlic confit.

The gastronomical adventure didn’t stop with dinner. Two hours out of Hong Kong, the breakfast service started including blended-fruit smoothies, eggs, bacon, and French toast. It was tempting to keep on flying!

I snap back to reality. It’s now 3:23AM and I’m no closer to sleep. In fact, I’m kind of hungry.

Tags: , ,